Custom Bathroom Countertops With Various Materials

A variety of materials are used in the manufacture of bathroom countertops, and each of them affects the cost, quality and durability of the product, as well as its attractiveness. Consider the most common options.

Custom Bathroom Quartz Countertops

Modern bathrooms are distinguished by style, comfort, and functionality, and all these requirements are fully met by natural stone such as quartz countertops in the bathroom. 

According to your desire, custom bathroom quartz countertops can become airy or solid, light or strict, ornate or concise, while at the same time comfortable, durable, and beautiful.

A solid quartz surface increases the moisture resistance of the entire structure, even a small bathroom. Under a single surface of a custom bathroom quartz countertop for a bathroom, you can easily place shelves for hygiene and bath accessories, laundry containers, and a washing machine.

Quartz Countertops

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Custom Granite Bathroom Countertops

After quartz, you can make custom bathroom granite countertops, because granite stones are strong, durable, reliable, and moisture-resistant.  Since they are absolutely natural, they are completely safe for humans and the environment. 

You can make the countertop in almost any color with natural granite in many color options, and you are sure to find one that suits you. The material is available in tiles or slabs. The tile is small and modular and you can set this to almost any surface. 

For large bathrooms and large homes, you can purchase granite in single slabs. The only restrictions for the stove are the size of the room and the possibility of installing it. Granite countertops are extremely heavy, especially if you use a single slab. The floor and structure must be strong enough to support the weight of the countertop. 

Granite not only makes it more pleasant to the touch but also allows you to significantly extend the life of your bathroom granite countertop. Therefore, you need regular maintenance to keep your countertops in very good condition. 

Besides the countertop, you can also make a beautiful custom granite bathroom for you.

Granite Countertops

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Why Choose Quartz For Countertop?

Now kitchen countertops with quartz have gained popularity due to their durability and natural beauty. That’s why quartz is one of the newest and best materials for kitchen countertops!

Countertops made with quartz are available in an endless variety of colors and finishes. The inclusion of quartz crystals and resin gives the countertops an organic texture that can rival any natural stone in appearance. So, common countertop colors are white, black, brown, and gray. A lovely brown quartz countertop looks absolutely stunning in a white, finished retro kitchen.

The cold steel quartz worktop is elegant and provides a beautiful contrast to the wood laminate cabinets in some more modern kitchen models. No need to worry about cooking and staining spills with these countertops!

A ready-made or custom quartz countertop offered in Lewisville and Carrollton TX by AA Granite Fabrication Center has such a variety of colors that it is easy to find a choice for even the most demanding taste. Varying shades of black, white, and brown give the quartz countertop organic depth and visual appeal.

Quartz Countertops

Check our wide range of bathroom & kitchen Quartz Countertops

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STEP 1: PLAN THE INSTALLATION

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When planning your installation, working with your local stone fabrication shop is key. Granite is heavy, difficult to transport and must be cut with specialty tools. And though it’s known for its hardness, if it’s not handled correctly or installed with proper support, it can crack or, worse, break.

There are few fixes for a broken slab of granite. So it’s a good idea to work closely with your local stone fabricator.

The first step is to decide what type of granite you want. The shop will have many samples and slabs. You’ll see all the varied colors and grain patterns up close.

You’ll also see the various edging patterns to choose from: square, bevel, bull-nose, miter, ogee and many more.

You may want to have the fabricator visit your kitchen to check if anything there may affect how the countertops are made, such as wall bump-outs or exposed pipes.

In addition to the main countertop surface, you’ll need to decide on the length of the countertop overhang, as well as the type and size of backsplash.

STEP 2: MEASURE FOR INSTALLATION

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Once you’ve got your granite picked out and your old countertops removed, take accurate measurements of your base cabinets to give to the fabricator. Start with the tops of the base cabinets, including the distance from the front of the face frame to the wall along the entire length of cabinets.

STEP 3: CREATE A TEMPLATE

The most accurate way to get measurements for your fabricator is to make a template from cardboard, thin luan plywood or even Mylar plastic.

Scribe the template so that it fits snugly against the wall along the entire run of cabinets before tracing the front edge onto the template.

In your template, you must measure the exact locations of cutouts for sinks and cooktops, and holes for faucets and soap dispensers. Be careful not to allow a span of more than 2 feet between cabinets, such as a span over a dishwasher. And allow no more than 6 inches of unsupported overhang with 2-centimeter stone and 9 inches with 3-centimeter stone.

If you plan an undermount sink, make note of that on the template for the fabricator, who will be able to cut a groove along the underside edge of the sink hole, so that the sink clips can be secured.

Also, insist that your fabricator “rod” the cutouts with steel or fiberglass reinforcements to strengthen the narrow areas around the cutouts.

Remember, if you’ll feel more comfortable, you can always negotiate an itemized price for your stone fabricator to come and take the measurements to ensure accuracy.

Once you’ve clearly specified your requirements and submitted your measurements, set a date for pickup or delivery of your finished countertops.

STEP 4: PREPARE FOR INSTALLATION

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Check to make sure your base cabinets are level across their entire length. If not, unfasten the base units and level them with shims underneath the baseboard.

It’s not a good idea to use shims directly under the granite countertop. This will create small voids that could cause the granite to crack under pressure.

STEP 5: TRANSPORTING GRANITE

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Now that you’ve given measurements to the fabricator and leveled your cabinets, it’s time to get the cut countertops home safely, which can be tricky.

Unless they’re being delivered, you’ll have to pick up the countertops from the fabricator when they’re ready.

Remember that granite is heavy — a 2′ x 6′ countertop can weigh in excess of 400 pounds — so enlist some help to transport and move the countertops safely.

It’s important to always carry the countertops in a vertical position, never horizontally flat, to avoid cracking or breaking the stone. To transport granite slabs, carry them on edge in an A-frame rack, the way glass is carried. If needed, you can make a simple rack from 2x4s. Protect the edges by covering them with wide painter’s tape.

When the slabs arrive, have a cleared space ready in the kitchen area to store them upright on edge until you’re ready to install them.

STEP 6: INSTALL THE SLABS

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Once you have the granite slabs home, it’s time to install them. First, dry-fit the countertop to ensure an accurate fit.

When lifting the countertop, take extra care to support the granite where it is thin, such as along cutouts.

Lay the slabs directly on the frames of the lower cabinets. It’s not necessary for the granite to be supported by an additional subsurface, like solid plywood.

If the wall-facing edge of a countertop isn’t flush and requires adjustment, carefully mark all the areas of the countertop to be removed and gently lower it back down.

Then, using a dry-cut diamond blade installed on an electric grinder, carefully shave the edge to the desired level, remembering to always wear protective eye-wear to guard against dust and grit.

Then fit the slabs back in place making sure all the edges fit snuggly and securely, including the seams between slabs if you have more than one.

STEP 7: JOIN THE SEAMS

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With the slabs flush and level on the cabinets, if you have multiple slabs, now is the time to fit them together.

First, tape the edges to protect them. Join the butt seams using color-matched two-part epoxy, which you can purchase from the fabricator shop.

Tighten the tightening screws until you feel resistance. Attach and turn on the auto pump — the tension created will ensure that the edges of the seams remain flush as the epoxy dries. A seam setter also ensures that the top edges of the seams remain flush with each other.

When the epoxy is dry, after about an hour, remove the setter. Then carefully shave away any excess epoxy using a single-edge razor held vertically. Don’t hold the razor at an angle or you may gouge the epoxy. And remember to use even strokes.

STEP 8: ATTACH TO THE CABINETS

Now that the seams of the slabs are joined, it’s time to secure the stone to the cabinets. The weight of the countertops themselves is nearly enough to hold the stone in place, but you’ll still want to run a bead of caulk along the underside perimeter of the counter, where the stone meets the cabinet top.

Don’t use silicone caulk; over time, silicone caulk could wick into the stone and cause staining. Stick with acrylic.

STEP 9: APPLY A SEALER

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With your installation complete, finish by applying granite sealer to your countertops; this will protect the stone and prevent any deep staining. Simply wipe it on evenly with a clean, soft cloth, making sure to get full coverage. Let dry for 24 hours.

STEP 10: MAINTENANCE

Clean your new countertops using only granite and quartz cleaner, which you can purchase at most fabrications shops. This special cleaner will leave no residue and keep your granite countertops looking shiny and new.

Installing a granite countertop yourself is challenging, but the cost-savings and enhancement to your kitchen are well worth the effort.

Source: DIY Network
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THE PROS OF QUARTZ COUNTERTOPS

Although its name might lead you to think of natural stone, the quartz in the decorative stone industry is really an engineered composite. It’s a combination of a high percentage of crushed quartz (about 90 to 94 percent)with a binding polymer resin to create a hybrid material that has been the best of both natural stone and synthetics (e.g. solid surface, laminates) for over a decade already. With that in mind, let’s explore the primary pros and cons of quartz countertops:

1. NON-POROUS

Unlike natural stones that has microscopic pores over its entire surface, the polymer resin in between the crushed quartz bits evenly fill out the gaps of the surface. This contributes towards the durability aspect of quartz countertops being very resistant to stains, liquids and pigmentation.This makes cleaning a quartz surface less of a chore as any mess or spills simply glide off the surface with ease.

More importantly, however, is that non-porous quartz countertops are highly antimicrobial, a desirable characteristic where hygiene is of concern. Without microscopic gaps or spaces on the surface of the material for microorganisms to latch on to, it significantly inhibits their ability to grow and form colonies.

Many common bacteria, such as Staphylococcus aureus,which you can find living on your own skin even, produce dangerous toxins that are difficult to destroy. Therefore, it is DEFINITELY recommended that you notlet them breed in the first place.

Worst case scenario however, pores can trap liquids in between solid surfaces – making it the perfect place for many common types of bacteria to start building biofilms. Biofilms protect the bacteria and can make getting rid of them a million times harder than it should have been.

2. HEAT-RESISTANT

Compared to other synthetic-based options, such a solid surface and laminate, quartz will not bend and warp if it were to come into contact with hot objects. It can withstand heat up to roughly 204 degrees Celsius.In addition to that, burn marks on quartz countertops can be removed by sanding down the surface. Solid surfaces or laminated countertops, however, would’ve popped and sizzled into an unsalvageable mess and must be replaced if exposed to extremely high temperatures.

3. SCRATCH RESISTANT

Having its build composed almost entirely of hard quartz mineral, quartz countertops will blunt knives and other sharp metal objects before it would suffer from surface damage. But while the resin is still soft and susceptible, very little of it is exposed on the surface, and is unlikely to scratch except in the most severe worst case scenarios. Still, it’s far more durable compared to solid surface countertops, which scratch and gets cut easily.

4. IMPACT RESISTANT

Quartz countertops can absorb substantial impacts and exhibit greater durability to cracking compared to granite, thanks to the polymer resin granting compressibility in between the crushed quartz. Flexible and elastic,the resin serves as shock absorbers that disperses the energy from an impact evenly before it reaches the hard but brittle stone – it’s the same physics concept seen in Kevlar that makes it so resistant to high-speed projectiles.

In addition, the granules of crushed quartz in the flexible resin polymer matrix provides even more tolerance that further helps disperse high kinetic absorption which would otherwise be destructive to the surface.

THE CONS OF QUARTZ COUNTERTOPS

If there is one often recurring theme in the world, it’s the balance of positive aspects and negative aspects. With the polymer resin filling in quartz countertops contributes to many of its advantages, it’s also one of the main cause of its disadvantages. Some of which, we’ve listed below:

1. EXPENSIVE

Probably the first thing anyone in the world would notice is the price tag. Costing 18% less than granite on average, and 54% more expensive than solid surfaces or 270% more than laminate, quartz countertops can be very demanding for your bank account. Nevertheless, its durability, ease of maintenance and hygienic benefits more than makes up for its price.

2. NOT SUITED FOR OUTDOOR USE

Although great for your kitchen, quartz countertops aren’t the best choice for the great outdoors. Prolonged exposure to the elements will fade the material out quicker as the polymer resin and its color pigments react to constant sunlight and chemicals in the rain and air.

It is also more likely to get scratched due to the presence of outdoor activities and the general harshness of physical treatment people will give it because they’re outside. While that isn’t to say that quartz cannot be used outdoors, there are simply better options to choose from,such as granite, stainless steel or even concrete due to their ease of replacement and lower price tag.

3. NOT PERFECTLY HEAT RESISTANT

While it will not melt and warp like solid surfaces countertops would, placing a hot object directly on quartz is probably one of the worse ways to treat your countertop. Using a pad or trivet will completely circumvent this thermal concern, but there are times when you might just forget to use them by accident.

Source: MSN Network
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Take a deep breath. We have answers for you. While subjective things like shades of off-white (ecru vs. cream?), stone names, and design trends can be dizzying, there is one tool that can reliably help you cut through the confusion. I’m talking about science, my friend.

Aside from the obvious fact that science is super cool and sexy, there’s a real advantage to this approach: you will learn for yourself how stones perform. By experimenting on stone samples, you’ll not only gather key bits of information, but you’ll also gain confidence in the real-world attributes of various stones. There’s nothing like your own personal experiences to reassure you that your stone is going to tick all the boxes for your situation.

Match the properties to the purpose

The first step is to assess your primary needs. A hardworking kitchen countertop in a family home might require durability as the top priority. A bathroom floor might favor texture and grip. A stone patio in Wisconsin needs to resist splitting, while the countertop at a bank will have to resist fingerprints and oils.

If possible, make a list of the properties that are most important to you before you head to the showrooms. That way, you can zero in on the types of stone that fit your criteria, and avoid the potential heartbreak of falling in love with slabs that don’t match your requirements.

Assemble your toolkit

We scientists love our gear, so here’s a list of items you can use to investigate stone samples:

• Glass tile
• Pocket knife
• Small bottle of lemon juice or vinegar
• Spray bottle of water
• Cloth for wiping up water or acid
• Magnifying glass (or use the magnifier function on your phone)
• Camera and notebook to document your findings

Obtaining samples

As you evaluate various types of stone, be sure to explain to the sales staff that you’d like to do a little “sciencing” on some samples. Many dealers are happy to provide samples of stones that you’re considering. This is a smart practice because an educated customer is likely a satisfied customer. Fabrication shops are another source of potential samples, and the scrap bins offer a treasure trove of stones to satisfy your geologic curiosities.

Ideally, industry professionals will appreciate your desire to be as informed as possible, and can accommodate customers who want to ‘test drive’ stones before committing to a purchase. Who knows, perhaps salespeople will be similarly curious about a stone’s performance, and can help guide your investigations. In an age where information is passed along so easily, sometimes without regard for context or validity, it’s in everyone’s best interest to engage in our very own, science-based fact checking.

Hardness

In geology-speak, the hardness of a stone is its resistance to being scratched. Hardness is not the same thing as strength or durability, which we’ll get to in a moment.

Hardness is important when it comes to things like using metal utensils on your countertop, or scuffing muddy shoes across a stone floor. Of all the properties, hardness is the simplest to evaluate. Using a glass tile, check your stone sample to check to see if the stone scratches the glass.

A few tips:

• Use a sharp corner of the stone.
• Press hard, but be careful not to press so hard that you risk breaking the glass. Set the glass on a tabletop to do the test, rather than holding it in your hand.
• There will almost always be a mark on the glass, but it’s not always an actual scratch. Wipe off any stone dust, then feel the scratch with your fingernail. Sometimes the stone simply ‘draws’ on the glass, and sometimes it scratches it. Get a little nerdy and investigate what’s really happening.

Another way to check the hardness of a stone is to use the tip of a knife blade to try to scratch the stone. One advantage of this method is you can examine individual minerals and check out different parts of the stone.

Stones that are harder than glass or a knife blade are likely to stand up well to wear and tear. Softer stones are still perfectly useful, even in high-wear areas, but it depends on your own preferences and needs.

Durability

How well a stone stands up to splitting, crumbling, and cracking are all part of its durability. This is harder to measure because it’s more subtle and subjective. Here are a few categories to investigate.

• Splitting. Many types of stone are layered. Use a broken (not sawn) edge and see if you can peel apart the layers. How strong are the layers? This is especially useful for slate and schist, which have pronounced layering. The large “flashy” areas of layered mica can add stunning beauty to the overall appearance, but can flake off if near the surface.
• Grains. All rocks are made of minerals, but in some cases those minerals are not stuck together too well. Investigate the edges of a stone and see if it’s possible to loosen or remove any grains. Use the tip of a pocketknife and have at it. In most cases, this test is a reassuring one. It’s not easy to pry grains out of a solid rock, and trying to do so will help you recognize the strength of your stone.
• Cracks and fissures. A naturally occurring break in a stone slab is called a fissure, and if it’s human caused (during fabrication or handling, for example), then it’s considered a crack. Fissures in stone are a perfectly normal occurrence. All kinds of geologic stresses can cause a stone to fracture, and in many cases, these areas heal themselves with minerals carried along by groundwater. But once the stone is out of the ground, that process will no longer take place, of course. Weaknesses in the stone are mostly a concern during fabrication, transportation, and installation. Once the stone is in place, it’s not likely to break as long as it’s well supported underneath. That said, it’s wise to investigate any irregularities in a stone’s surface, regardless of if they are natural or not. Can you feel the edge of a fracture on the slab’s surface? If not, then the cracks/fissure is unlikely to be a problem. Does a fracture run all the way through the stone? Will it be near edges or overhangs? If so, then it’s a good idea to trim that area off the slab during fabrication.

Acid resistance

Acids can affect stones that contain calcite or dolomite: marble, dolomitic marble, limestone, travertine, or onyx. Acid sensitivity is another quality that can seem like a mystery, but is easy to measure. Use lemon juice or vinegar, puddle it on the stone, and let it sit for several minutes. Wipe off the acid, then look at the stone at a low angle. Etching looks like a dull area on the surface of the stone. When a stone etches, a tiny amount of the stone dissolves in the acid. This won’t affect the strength or longevity of the stone, but it does make a visual mark. Sealing does not prevent etching, but occasional re-polishing or re-honing will remove etch marks.

Some stones etch quickly and easily. Others take longer to show effects, and etch marks are less noticeable when they do occur. If you love marble but are concerned about etching, you can opt for a honed finish, which often makes etch marks less visible compared to a polished finish. Etching is less of a concern in areas where acids are not used, or for people who don’t aspire to perfection in their homes. So, acid reactions are not necessarily a deal breaker. But a little experimenting will tell you how your potential stone reacts, and will help guide your decision.

An important rule of thumb is that granite, quartzite, and soapstone do not contain acid sensitive minerals. If you want to be sure to avoid etching, then seek these types of stone and do the tests to be sure the stone is classified correctly.

One last clarification on this subject is that we’re talking about everyday acids like citrus, vinegar, wine, or tomato juice. Powerful acids like rust removers and toilet bowl cleaners are much more potent and should be kept away from all types of natural stone.

Staining/porosity

Everybody loves strawberries. But we don’t want to be perpetually reminded of them with a bright pink berry stain on the kitchen island. Staining is linked to porosity—in other words, how much open space exists within the solid matrix of the stone. Thankfully, the high pressures that bind rocks into solid forms tend to squeeze away most of the pore spaces. But different stones have been subjected to different amounts of squeezing, and thus, porosity varies among stone types.

Testing for porosity can be done a few different ways. You can put some water on the surface of an unsealed stone and watch what happens. Does it soak right in? If so, that’s a stone with high porosity. Does the water bead up, and wipe away cleanly? Then you’ve got a tightly compacted, low porosity stone on your hands. If the water doesn’t visibly soak in, but leaves behind a shadow or a damp spot when wiped away, then the stone has intermediate porosity.

If you want to get a little fancier, you can put stone pieces edge-wise in a shallow pan of water and see if water wicks up into the stone. Details about porosity tests are described in the Deep Dive Into the Properties of Quartzite.

You can also check for porosity using cooking oil, but bear in mind that oils will often leave a residue on the surface of the stone even if the oil doesn’t soak into the stone’s pores. After letting oil sit on the stone, scrub it with soapy water, rinse it, and then let it dry completely. At that point you can evaluate the oil’s effect on the stone.

Impregnating sealers should be used with porous stones, and a sealer will reduce or slow the rate of absorption to allow you to clean it before a stain becomes a problem. But that’s your second line of defense. Your best bet is to use the test to find a stone with a lower porosity in the first place, if that’s what your desired usage requires.

Why a basic granite satisfies most measures

There’s a reason why granite is such a popular type of natural stone. It scores well in all the diagnostic tests. It’s made of quartz and feldspar, which are harder than glass. It doesn’t split into layers, and the minerals are held tightly together in an interlocking, jigsaw-like arrangement. None of the minerals in granite are affected by everyday household acids. Granite is also beautiful, and thanks to the wonders of geology, comes in a stunning range of colors and patterns. It’s a win for its properties and its good looks.

It’s often said that knowledge is power—which is certainly applicable when it comes to gathering information and learning about any kind of big purchase. In the case of natural stone, you’ll not only learn about hardness, etching, and porosity, but you’ll also gain insights about geology and the planet. In the end, not only will that help you understand the traits of your natural stone, but it will help you appreciate its origins, too.

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